The Carnival of Brazil is an annual festival held forty-six days before Easter. On certain days of Lent, Roman Catholics and some other Christians traditionally abstained from the consumption of meat and poultry, hence the term “carnival,” from carnelevare, “to remove (literally, “raise”) meat.”
Carnival celebrations are believed to have roots in the pagan festival of Saturnalia, which, adapted to Christianity, became a farewell to bad things in a season of religious discipline to practice repentance and prepare for Christ’s death and resurrection.
Rhythm, participation, and costumes vary from one region of Brazil to another. In the southeastern cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, huge organized parades are led by samba schools. Those official parades are meant to be watched by the public, while minor parades (“blocos”) allowing public participation can be found in other cities.
The northeastern cities of Salvador, Porto Seguro and Recife have organized groups parading through streets, and public interacts directly with them. This carnival is heavily influenced by African-Brazilian culture. Crowds follow the trio elétricos floats through the city streets. Also, in the northeast, Olinda carnival features unique characteristics, partly influenced by Venice Carnival mixed with cultural depictions of local folklore.
Carnival is the most famous holiday in Brazil and has become an event of huge proportions. The country stops completely for almost a week and festivities are intense, day and night, mainly in coastal cities. The consumption of beer accounts for 80% of annual consumption and tourism receives 70% of annual visitors. The government distributes condoms and launches awareness campaigns at this time to prevent the spread of AIDS.
Sambódromo
The Carnival parades in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo take place in the Sambodromo, located close to the city center. In the city of Rio, the parades start at 20:00 or 21:00 (depending on the date) and end around 5:00 in the morning. The Rio de Janeiro Metro (subway) operates 24 hours during the main parade days.
The actual amount of spectators in the Sambodromo may be higher than the official number of seats mentioned below.
Sector 9 is an exception. Actually the word ‘seat’ is not relevant. In Sector 1 access is given to the local community at a symbolic cost. Sectors 6 and 13 are the cheapest. Sectors 3, 5 and 7 have equally good views (even though there is a price difference between them). Sector 9 has marked seats and is therefore less crowded. Dress Circle and Boxes are the best, and priced accordingly.
Music
Samba
Originated in Bahia from the African rhythms, it was brought to Rio de Janeiro around 1920 and is still one of the most popular styles of Brazil, together with Samba-pagode and Samba-reggae (the band Olodum from Salvador da Bahia made samba-reggae famous). From intimate samba-cancões (samba songs) sung in bars to explosive drum parades performed during carnival, samba always evokes a warm and vibrant mood.
Samba developed as a distinctive kind of music at the beginning of the 20th century in Rio de Janeiro (then the capital of Brazil). In the 1930s, a group of musicians led by Ismael Silva founded in the neighbourhood of Estácio de Sá the first Samba School, Deixa Falar. They transformed the musical genre to make it fit better the carnival parade.
In this decade, the radio spread the genre’s popularity all around the country, and with the support of the nationalist dictatorship of Getúlio Vargas, samba became Brazil’s “official music.”
In the following years, samba has developed in several directions, from the gentle samba-canção to the drum orchestras which make the soundtrack of carnival parade. One of these new styles was the bossa nova, made by middle class white people. It got increasingly popular over time, with the works of João Gilberto and Antonio Carlos Jobim.
In the sixties, Brazil was politically divided, and the leftist musicians of bossa nova started to draw attention to the music made in the favelas. Many popular artists were discovered at this time. Names like Cartola, Nelson Cavaquinho, Velha Guarda da Portela, Zé Keti, and Clementina de Jesus recorded their first albums.
In the seventies, the samba got back to radio. Composers and singers like Martinho da Vila, Clara Nunes and Beth Carvalho dominated the hit parade.
In the beginning of the eighties, after having been sent to the underground due to styles like disco and Brazilian rock, Samba reappeared in the media with a musical movement created in the suburbs of Rio de Janeiro. It was the pagode, a renewed samba, with new instruments, like the banjo and the tantan, and a new language, more popular, filled with slang.
The most popular names were Zeca Pagodinho, Almir Guineto, Grupo Fundo de Quintal, Jorge Aragão, and Jovelina Pérola Negra. Various samba schools have been founded throughout Brazil.
A samba school combines the dancing and party fun of a night club with the gathering place of a social club and the community feeling of a volunteer group. During the spectacular Rio Carnival famous samba schools parade in the Sambódromo. An event that should not be missed.
Axé
This is not exactly about a style or musical movement, but rather about a useful brand name given to artists from Salvador who made music upon northeastern Brazilian, Caribbean and African rhythms with a pop-rock twist, which helped them take over the Brazilian hit parades since 1992.
Axé is a ritual greeting used in Candomblé and Umbanda religions, and means “good vibration.” The word music was attached to Axé, used as slang within the local music biz, by a journalist who intended to create a derogatory term for the pretentious dance-driven style.
As singer Daniela Mercury began her rise to stardom in Rio and São Paulo, anything coming from Salvador would be labeled Axé Music. Soon, the artists became oblivious to the derogatory origins of the term and started taking advantage of it. With the media pushing it forward, the soundtrack of Carnival in Salvador quickly spread over the country (through off-season Carnival shindigs), strengthening its industrial potentials and producing year-round hits along the 90s.
Tested within the height of Carnival heat, Axé songs have been commercially successful in Brazil throughout the past decade. The year 1998 was particularly fortunate for the artists from Bahia: together, Daniela Mercury, Ivete Sangalo, Chiclete com Banana, Araketu, Cheiro de Amor and É o Tchan sold over 3.4 million records.
Micareta
There are also micaretas, as they are called off-season Carnival. The micaretas are similar to the Bahian Carnival and very different from the samba school parades, popular in Rio de Janeiro. The micareta is like this: during the days of party, a huge truck (called “trio elétrico”), with a band on the top and sound boxes all around, drives slowly along the streets or enclosed space.
The crowd follows the trio elétrico singing, dancing, jumping to the sound of the music. To be allowed to follow the truck, one must buy admittance to one of the several “blocos” (block). A bloco is an enterprise which obtains permission to participate in micareta, hires the band, sells admittance and controls access.
Brazil has several micaretas that take place throughout the year in various cities. They can be done in the streets (traditional micareta) or in closed spaces surrounded (indoor micareta).
Security
Brazil in the 1980s started developing a reputation for violence and crime due to a massive debt that left no money for necessities such as police, hospitals and schools.
In the early 1990s, however, things began to turn around, as the government was able to decrease its debt and thus reintroduce money into public services, starting with the police. Officers were stationed anywhere there seemed to be a problem: city streets, beaches, etc. and the crime rate began to fall.
Huge investments into tourism simultaneously made the protection of tourists a government priority. Tourism throughout Brazil is now a top priority, and everything is done to ensure the safety and comfort of visitors.
Taxis are very safe and available everywhere, but some incidents are occasionally reported. Taxis are the number one most common mode of transportation that tourists use, and with their inexpensive costs and convenience, it is generally the one most recommended.
Although pictures and videos of Carnival in Salvador don’t usually focus on police officers, a security system is there. Besides the regular police force, revelers dance amidst a security staff numbering over 600 people in all, hired by blocos to contain the crowds and keep the flow moving as smoothly as possible along the designated circuit. All private security plans are reviewed in advance by the Brazilian Federal Police.